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Whenever curating a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary triumph.